Fashion, identity, image:
Gespeichert in:
| Beteilige Person: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | Englisch |
| Veröffentlicht: |
London ; New York
Bloomsbury Visual Arts
2022
|
| Schlagwörter: | |
| Links: | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033636878&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033636878&sequence=000003&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| Abstract: | "Uses influential fashion collections and shows to explore the huge shifts in identity, body politics, representation and authenticity in relation to clothing in Britain, Europe and America over the last 30 years"-- |
| Umfang: | xvii, 158 Illustrationen 24 cm |
| ISBN: | 9781350183216 1350183210 9781350183209 1350183202 |
Internformat
MARC
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Datensatz im Suchindex
| _version_ | 1819335541432254464 |
|---|---|
| adam_text | CONTENTS List of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction vii ix x Authoring Fashion, Intersecting Sex and Gender Introduction Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ T-Shirt for Christian Dior: Branding, identity and authorship Between the womb and the gay parade: Alexander McQueens ‘The Widows of Culloden’ as poetic text Subverting the symbolic order: McQueen’s abject woman Conclusion: Squaring up to the phallic mother Notes 14 16 27 30 2 Written on the body: Fashion, clothing and age Introduction ‘Active ageing’, youthfulness and fashion ‘Fashion For All Ages’ and the new old model army Race and reversing convention ‘States of truth and fiction’: Ari Seth Cohen and Magali Nougarède Conclusion: From idiotic methods to the realities of time and place Notes 33 33 35 41 48 52 61 65 3 (Un) Gendering the runway Introduction Forerunners of transgender and non-binary identities in fashion The advent of transgendered models The abject trans-model Between abjection and acceptance ‘Come into the (trans)garden : The heterotopia of fashion The authentic self Other models: Intersectionality and wider diversity in the fashion industry Tokenism versus activism Conclusion: Between tokenism and authenticity Notes 1 1 1 5 67 67 70 74 75 76 79 84 92 96 101 103
Contents 4 Loving the alien: Fashion and cyborg identities Introduction Andrea Giacobbe and ‘Simplex Concordia’ Alessandro Michele and the Gucci Cyborg Compromising race and diversity A ‘genuine cyborg manifesto’? Conclusion: Towards emancipatory possibilities Notes Epilogue Bibliographic references Index 105 105 107 115 124 128 134 136 138 143 157
How has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Does the industry have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong unpack these questions in relation to clothing, representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Fashion, identity, Image explores intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking collections, including Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen’s ‘The Widows of Culloden’ (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace in a fashion heterotopia since 2015. The impact of active ageing and the silver economy is analyzed through the Guardian’s ‘Fashion for All Ages’ and Ari Seth Cohen’s Advanced Style, and age and memory work in Magali Nougarède’s Crossing the Line (2002). The book concludes by looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, investigating the android as a redemptive figure and anachronism in Andrea Giacobbe’s photography and Alessandro Michele’s cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018).
|
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| author | Jobling, Paul |
| author_facet | Jobling, Paul |
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| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)1327841653 (DE-599)BVBBV048256650 |
| discipline | Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
| era | Geschichte 1990-2020 gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 1990-2020 |
| format | Book |
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| illustrated | Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2024-12-20T19:39:50Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9781350183216 1350183210 9781350183209 1350183202 |
| language | English |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-033636878 |
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| publishDate | 2022 |
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| spellingShingle | Jobling, Paul Fashion, identity, image Identität (DE-588)4026482-8 gnd Körperbild (DE-588)4137718-7 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd |
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| title | Fashion, identity, image |
| title_auth | Fashion, identity, image |
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| title_full | Fashion, identity, image Paul Jobling, Philippa Nesbitt and Angelene Wong |
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