Clothing the past: surviving garments from early medieval to early modern Western Europe
Gespeichert in:
| Beteiligte Personen: | , |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | Englisch |
| Veröffentlicht: |
Leiden ; Boston
Brill
[2018]
|
| Schlagwörter: | |
| Links: | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=029952386&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=029952386&sequence=000003&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| Beschreibung: | Includes bibliographical references and index |
| Umfang: | XIII, 453 Seiten Illustrationen, Karten |
| ISBN: | 9789004288706 |
Internformat
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| 100 | 1 | |a Coatsworth, Elizabeth |d 1941- |e Verfasser |0 (DE-588)136527329 |4 aut | |
| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Clothing the past |b surviving garments from early medieval to early modern Western Europe |c by Elizabeth Coatsworth, Gale R. Owen-Crocker |
| 264 | 1 | |a Leiden ; Boston |b Brill |c [2018] | |
| 264 | 4 | |c © 2018 | |
| 300 | |a XIII, 453 Seiten |b Illustrationen, Karten | ||
| 336 | |b txt |2 rdacontent | ||
| 337 | |b n |2 rdamedia | ||
| 338 | |b nc |2 rdacarrier | ||
| 500 | |a Includes bibliographical references and index | ||
| 648 | 7 | |a Geschichte 800-1600 |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf | |
| 650 | 4 | |a Geschichte | |
| 650 | 4 | |a Clothing and dress |x History |z Europe | |
| 650 | 0 | 7 | |a Kleidung |0 (DE-588)4031011-5 |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf |
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| 689 | 0 | 1 | |a Kleidung |0 (DE-588)4031011-5 |D s |
| 689 | 0 | 2 | |a Geschichte 800-1600 |A z |
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| 700 | 1 | |a Owen-Crocker, Gale R. |d 1947- |e Verfasser |0 (DE-588)139676422 |4 aut | |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
| _version_ | 1819327725609943040 |
|---|---|
| adam_text | Contents
Preface xi
List of Illustrations xii
The Authors xiv
Notes xv
General Introduction 1
Origins of the Study 1
Scope of the Study 1
Circumstance of Survival of Complete (or Almost Complete)
Garments 10
Chance Finds 10
Burial Dress n
Finds from Archaeological Excavations 12
Items of Dress Surviving in Treasuries 13
Garments of Unknown Origin 14
Life after Life/Afterlife 15
Sets and Collections of Garments 15
Weaves and Other Constructional Techniques; Non-Textile
Materials; Embroidered Decoration 20
Inscriptions 21
Iconography 22
Imperial/Royal Iconography 22
Christian Iconography 22
Heraldry and Other Decoration of Secular Significance 24
Everyday Wear 24
Style and Fashion 26
A F inal Word 28
1 Headgear: Hat, Cap, Hood, Mitre 29
Introduction 29
1.1 Orkney Hood 33
1.2 Bocksten Hood 37
1.3 York Silk Hood or Cap 41
1.4 Cap of St Birgitta 45
1.5 Headdress from Dokkum-Berg Sion 49
1.6 Little Sampford Hat 51
1.7 Birette of Prince Fernando de la Cerda 55
1.8 Composite Mitre from Salzburg 59
1.9 Mitre with the Martyrdoms of St Thomas Becket and
St Stephen 63
1.10 Jewelled Mitre of William of Wykeham 67
2 Outer Garments: Copes, Cloaks and Mantles 70
Introduction 70
2.1 ‘Star Mantle’of Emperor Henry 11 75
2.2 ‘Coronation Mantle’ of King Stephen of Hungary 81
2.3 Mantle of King Roger 11 of Sicily 85
2.4 Mantle of Philip of Swabia 91
2.5 Mantle of Emperor Otto iv 95
VIII
CONTENTS
2.6 Mantle of Prince Fernando de la Cerda 99
2.7 Blue Mantle of St Kunigunde 101
2.8 Syon Cope 105
2.9 Hildesheim Cope 111
2.10 Butler-Bowdon Cope 115
3 The Priestly Outer Garment: Chasuble 120
Introduction 120
3.1 Bell Chasuble Attributed to St Willigilis 123
3.2 Bressanone (Brixen) Chasuble 127
3.3 Castel Sant’Elia Chasuble as Reliquary 131
3.4 Clare Chasuble 135
3.5 Melk Chasuble 139
3.6 Striped Egyptian Silk Chasuble 143
3.7 Erpingham Chasuble 147
3.8 Italian Voided Velvet Chasuble 151
3.9 Blue Wool Chasuble with Applied Embroidered Cross 155
3.10 Fiddleback Chasuble from Munich 157
4 Body Garments of Wool and Linen: Tunic, Shirt, Alb 159
Introduction 159
4.1 Bocksten Tunic 163
4.2 Greenland Gown with Short Sleeves 165
4.3 Greenland Gown with Buttoned Sleeves 167
4.4 Cowl of St Francis of Assisi 171
4.5 Shirt of St Louis 175
4.6 Alb Attributed to St Thomas Becket 179
4.7 Alb Attributed to St Bernulph of Utrecht 183
4.8 Embroidered Alb with Embroidered Apparels in Cologne 187
4.9 Alb with Embroidered Apparels in Munich 191
4.10 Lucera Alb with Embroidered Apparels 193
5 Rich Body Garments: Tunic, Gown, Overgown, Dalmatic and
Tunicle 197
Introduction 197
5.1 Saya Encordata of Eleanor of Castile, Queen of Aragón 201
5.2 Pellote of Eleanor of Castile, Queen of Aragón 203
5.3 Striped Pellote of Don Fernando 205
5.4 Saya Encordata of Prince Fernando de La Cerda 209
5.5 ‘Golden Gown’ of Queen Margaret 211
5.6 Dalmatic of St Ulrich 217
5.7 Mi-parti Dalmatic 221
5.8 Goss Dalmatic 225
5.9 Tunicle of Pere d’Urg 229
5.10 ‘Eagle Dalmatic’ of the Holy Roman Empire 233
6 Upper Body and Front Fastening Garments: Undergarment, Padded
Garment, Coat-Like Garment 235
Introduction 235
6.1 Bodice or Brassiere from Lengberg Castle, Nikolsdorf 239
6.2 Auqueton of the Blessed Isabelle of France 241
CONTENTS
IX
6.3 Rationale from Regensberg 245
6.4 Greenland Buttoned and Collared Gown 249
6.5 Rothwelljack 253
6.6 Jupon or Coat-Armour of the Black Prince 255
6.7 Pourpoint of Charles of Blois 259
6.8 Pourpoint of Charles VI of France 263
6.9 Guibbone of Don Garçia de’Medici 267
6.10 Guibbone of Duke Cosimo 1 de’Medici 271
7 Loin and Leg Coverings: Underpants, Hose, Sock, Buskin 273
Introduction 273
7.1 Underpants from Lengberg Castle, Nikolsdorf 277
7.2 Bocksten Hose 281
7.3 Greenland Stocking 285
7.4 Garter from London 287
7.5 Sock from York 291
7.6 Sock from Uppsala 293
7.7 Buskins Attributed to St Germanus 295
7.8 Buskins of Pope Clement 11 299
7.9 Buskins Attributed to St Dizier (Desiderius) 303
7.10 Buskins of Archbishop Hubert Walter 307
8 Minor Vestments: Stole, Maniple, Amice, Pallium, Ecclesiastical
Girdle, Humeral Veil 309
Introduction 309
8.1 Belt of Ailbecunda 313
8.2 BeltofWitgar 317
8.3 Pallium with Embroidered Chi-Rho Emblem Associated with St
Caesarius of Arles and Later Silk Casing 321
8.4 Pallium and Casing‘aux Lièvres’of Saint Caesarius of Arles 325
8.5 Matching Stole and Maniple from the Tomb of St Cuthbert 327
8.6 Maniple of St Ulrich 333
8.7 Heraldic Stole 337
8.8 Humeral Veil (?) from Maaseik, known as the Velamen of St
Harlindis 341
8.9 Amice from Munich 345
8.10 Amice from Cologne 347
9 Footwear: Shoe, Boot, Slipper, Patten 348
Introduction 348
9.1 Pair of Shoes from Oseberg 353
9.2 Shoe Mounted on a Bone Skate, from York 357
9.3 London Shoe with Drawstring and Long Toe 361
9.4 Embroidered Shoe from Bryggen, Bergen 365
9.5 London Poulaine 369
9.6 London Patten 373
9.7 Boots from a Bog Burial Near Peiting 377
9.8 Shoes of St Germanus 381
9.9 Shoe Attributed to St Dizier (Desiderius) 385
9.10 Shoes of Archbishop Hubert Walter 387
CONTENTS
Accessories: Mitten, Glove, Secular Belt, Possible Headdress
Decoration or Cloak Ties 389
Introduction 389
10.1 Icelandic Naalblnding Mitten 395
10.2 Linked Woven Mittens from Iceland 397
10.3 Episcopal Gloves (St Sabinus Gloves) from Canosa 401
10.4 Bressanone (Brixen) Episcopal Gloves 407
10.5 Episcopal Gloves of William Warham 409
10.6 Reliquary Gloves of Blessed Christina von Stommeln 413
10.7 Heraldic Girdle of Fernando de la Cerda 417
10.8 Girdle of Philip of Swabia 421
10.9 Enamelled Girdle Associated with William of Wykeham 425
10.10 Possible Headband Decoration or Cloak Tie from the Tomb of
St Cuthbert 429
Glossary 431
Index 437
Contents
Preface xi
List of Illustrations xii
The Authors xiv
Notes xv
General Introduction 1
Origins of the Study 1
Scope of the Study 1
Circumstance of Survival of Complete (or Almost Complete)
Garments 10
Chance Finds 10
Burial Dress n
Finds from Archaeological Excavations 12
Items of Dress Surviving in Treasuries 13
Garments of Unknown Origin 14
Life after Life/Afterlife 15
Sets and Collections of Garments 15
Weaves and Other Constructional Techniques; Non-Textile
Materials; Embroidered Decoration 20
Inscriptions 21
Iconography 22
Imperial/Royal Iconography 22
Christian Iconography 22
Heraldry and Other Decoration of Secular Significance 24
Everyday Wear 24
Style and Fashion 26
A F inal Word 28
1 Headgear: Hat, Cap, Hood, Mitre 29
Introduction 29
1.1 Orkney Hood 33
1.2 Bocksten Hood 37
1.3 York Silk Hood or Cap 41
1.4 Cap of St Birgitta 45
1.5 Headdress from Dokkum-Berg Sion 49
1.6 Little Sampford Hat 51
1.7 Birette of Prince Fernando de la Cerda 55
1.8 Composite Mitre from Salzburg 59
1.9 Mitre with the Martyrdoms of St Thomas Becket and
St Stephen 63
1.10 Jewelled Mitre of William of Wykeham 67
2 Outer Garments: Copes, Cloaks and Mantles 70
Introduction 70
2.1 ‘Star Mantle’of Emperor Henry 11 75
2.2 ‘Coronation Mantle’ of King Stephen of Hungary 81
2.3 Mantle of King Roger 11 of Sicily 85
2.4 Mantle of Philip of Swabia 91
2.5 Mantle of Emperor Otto iv 95
VIII
CONTENTS
2.6 Mantle of Prince Fernando de la Cerda 99
2.7 Blue Mantle of St Kunigunde 101
2.8 Syon Cope 105
2.9 Hildesheim Cope 111
2.10 Butler-Bowdon Cope 115
3 The Priestly Outer Garment: Chasuble 120
Introduction 120
3.1 Bell Chasuble Attributed to St Willigilis 123
3.2 Bressanone (Brixen) Chasuble 127
3.3 Castel Sant’Elia Chasuble as Reliquary 131
3.4 Clare Chasuble 135
3.5 Melk Chasuble 139
3.6 Striped Egyptian Silk Chasuble 143
3.7 Erpingham Chasuble 147
3.8 Italian Voided Velvet Chasuble 151
3.9 Blue Wool Chasuble with Applied Embroidered Cross 155
3.10 Fiddleback Chasuble from Munich 157
4 Body Garments of Wool and Linen: Tunic, Shirt, Alb 159
Introduction 159
4.1 Bocksten Tunic 163
4.2 Greenland Gown with Short Sleeves 165
4.3 Greenland Gown with Buttoned Sleeves 167
4.4 Cowl of St Francis of Assisi 171
4.5 Shirt of St Louis 175
4.6 Alb Attributed to St Thomas Becket 179
4.7 Alb Attributed to St Bernulph of Utrecht 183
4.8 Embroidered Alb with Embroidered Apparels in Cologne 187
4.9 Alb with Embroidered Apparels in Munich 191
4.10 Lucera Alb with Embroidered Apparels 193
5 Rich Body Garments: Tunic, Gown, Overgown, Dalmatic and
Tunicle 197
Introduction 197
5.1 Saya Encordata of Eleanor of Castile, Queen of Aragón 201
5.2 Pellote of Eleanor of Castile, Queen of Aragón 203
5.3 Striped Pellote of Don Fernando 205
5.4 Saya Encordata of Prince Fernando de La Cerda 209
5.5 ‘Golden Gown’ of Queen Margaret 211
5.6 Dalmatic of St Ulrich 217
5.7 Mi-parti Dalmatic 221
5.8 Goss Dalmatic 225
5.9 Tunicle of Pere d’Urg 229
5.10 ‘Eagle Dalmatic’ of the Holy Roman Empire 233
6 Upper Body and Front Fastening Garments: Undergarment, Padded
Garment, Coat-Like Garment 235
Introduction 235
6.1 Bodice or Brassiere from Lengberg Castle, Nikolsdorf 239
6.2 Auqueton of the Blessed Isabelle of France 241
CONTENTS
IX
6.3 Rationale from Regensberg 245
6.4 Greenland Buttoned and Collared Gown 249
6.5 Rothwelljack 253
6.6 Jupon or Coat-Armour of the Black Prince 255
6.7 Pourpoint of Charles of Blois 259
6.8 Pourpoint of Charles VI of France 263
6.9 Guibbone of Don Garçia de’Medici 267
6.10 Guibbone of Duke Cosimo 1 de’Medici 271
7 Loin and Leg Coverings: Underpants, Hose, Sock, Buskin 273
Introduction 273
7.1 Underpants from Lengberg Castle, Nikolsdorf 277
7.2 Bocksten Hose 281
7.3 Greenland Stocking 285
7.4 Garter from London 287
7.5 Sock from York 291
7.6 Sock from Uppsala 293
7.7 Buskins Attributed to St Germanus 295
7.8 Buskins of Pope Clement 11 299
7.9 Buskins Attributed to St Dizier (Desiderius) 303
7.10 Buskins of Archbishop Hubert Walter 307
8 Minor Vestments: Stole, Maniple, Amice, Pallium, Ecclesiastical
Girdle, Humeral Veil 309
Introduction 309
8.1 Belt of Ailbecunda 313
8.2 BeltofWitgar 317
8.3 Pallium with Embroidered Chi-Rho Emblem Associated with St
Caesarius of Arles and Later Silk Casing 321
8.4 Pallium and Casing‘aux Lièvres’of Saint Caesarius of Arles 325
8.5 Matching Stole and Maniple from the Tomb of St Cuthbert 327
8.6 Maniple of St Ulrich 333
8.7 Heraldic Stole 337
8.8 Humeral Veil (?) from Maaseik, known as the Velamen of St
Harlindis 341
8.9 Amice from Munich 345
8.10 Amice from Cologne 347
9 Footwear: Shoe, Boot, Slipper, Patten 348
Introduction 348
9.1 Pair of Shoes from Oseberg 353
9.2 Shoe Mounted on a Bone Skate, from York 357
9.3 London Shoe with Drawstring and Long Toe 361
9.4 Embroidered Shoe from Bryggen, Bergen 365
9.5 London Poulaine 369
9.6 London Patten 373
9.7 Boots from a Bog Burial Near Peiting 377
9.8 Shoes of St Germanus 381
9.9 Shoe Attributed to St Dizier (Desiderius) 385
9.10 Shoes of Archbishop Hubert Walter 387
CONTENTS
Accessories: Mitten, Glove, Secular Belt, Possible Headdress
Decoration or Cloak Ties 389
Introduction 389
10.1 Icelandic Naalblnding Mitten 395
10.2 Linked Woven Mittens from Iceland 397
10.3 Episcopal Gloves (St Sabinus Gloves) from Canosa 401
10.4 Bressanone (Brixen) Episcopal Gloves 407
10.5 Episcopal Gloves of William Warham 409
10.6 Reliquary Gloves of Blessed Christina von Stommeln 413
10.7 Heraldic Girdle of Fernando de la Cerda 417
10.8 Girdle of Philip of Swabia 421
10.9 Enamelled Girdle Associated with William of Wykeham 425
10.10 Possible Headband Decoration or Cloak Tie from the Tomb of
St Cuthbert 429
Glossary 431
Index 437
|
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| author | Coatsworth, Elizabeth 1941- Owen-Crocker, Gale R. 1947- |
| author_GND | (DE-588)136527329 (DE-588)139676422 |
| author_facet | Coatsworth, Elizabeth 1941- Owen-Crocker, Gale R. 1947- |
| author_role | aut aut |
| author_sort | Coatsworth, Elizabeth 1941- |
| author_variant | e c ec g r o c gro groc |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV044553594 |
| callnumber-first | G - Geography, Anthropology, Recreation |
| callnumber-label | GT509 |
| callnumber-raw | GT509 |
| callnumber-search | GT509 |
| callnumber-sort | GT 3509 |
| callnumber-subject | GT - Manners and Customs |
| classification_rvk | LH 78145 |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)1030911650 (DE-599)BVBBV044553594 |
| dewey-full | 391.0094 |
| dewey-hundreds | 300 - Social sciences |
| dewey-ones | 391 - Costume and personal appearance |
| dewey-raw | 391.0094 |
| dewey-search | 391.0094 |
| dewey-sort | 3391.0094 |
| dewey-tens | 390 - Customs, etiquette, folklore |
| discipline | Kunstgeschichte Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
| era | Geschichte 800-1600 gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 800-1600 |
| format | Book |
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| geographic | Europa Westeuropa (DE-588)4079215-8 gnd |
| geographic_facet | Europa Westeuropa |
| id | DE-604.BV044553594 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2024-12-20T18:05:56Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9789004288706 |
| language | English |
| lccn | 017036233 |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-029952386 |
| oclc_num | 1030911650 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | DE-Y3 DE-Y2 DE-12 DE-19 DE-BY-UBM DE-M515 |
| owner_facet | DE-Y3 DE-Y2 DE-12 DE-19 DE-BY-UBM DE-M515 |
| physical | XIII, 453 Seiten Illustrationen, Karten |
| publishDate | 2018 |
| publishDateSearch | 2018 |
| publishDateSort | 2018 |
| publisher | Brill |
| record_format | marc |
| spellingShingle | Coatsworth, Elizabeth 1941- Owen-Crocker, Gale R. 1947- Clothing the past surviving garments from early medieval to early modern Western Europe Geschichte Clothing and dress History Europe Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4031011-5 (DE-588)4079215-8 |
| title | Clothing the past surviving garments from early medieval to early modern Western Europe |
| title_auth | Clothing the past surviving garments from early medieval to early modern Western Europe |
| title_exact_search | Clothing the past surviving garments from early medieval to early modern Western Europe |
| title_full | Clothing the past surviving garments from early medieval to early modern Western Europe by Elizabeth Coatsworth, Gale R. Owen-Crocker |
| title_fullStr | Clothing the past surviving garments from early medieval to early modern Western Europe by Elizabeth Coatsworth, Gale R. Owen-Crocker |
| title_full_unstemmed | Clothing the past surviving garments from early medieval to early modern Western Europe by Elizabeth Coatsworth, Gale R. Owen-Crocker |
| title_short | Clothing the past |
| title_sort | clothing the past surviving garments from early medieval to early modern western europe |
| title_sub | surviving garments from early medieval to early modern Western Europe |
| topic | Geschichte Clothing and dress History Europe Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd |
| topic_facet | Geschichte Clothing and dress History Europe Kleidung Europa Westeuropa |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=029952386&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=029952386&sequence=000003&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
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