Coastal engineering: 1 Generation, propagation and influence of waves
Gespeichert in:
| Beteilige Person: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | Englisch |
| Veröffentlicht: |
Amsterdam
Elsevier
1974
|
| Schriftenreihe: | Developments in geotechnical engineering
... |
| Schlagwörter: | |
| Links: | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=015375775&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| Umfang: | XIII, 457 S. graph. Darst |
| ISBN: | 0444411011 |
Internformat
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| 100 | 1 | |a Silvester, Richard |e Verfasser |4 aut | |
| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Coastal engineering |n 1 |p Generation, propagation and influence of waves |
| 264 | 1 | |a Amsterdam |b Elsevier |c 1974 | |
| 300 | |a XIII, 457 S. |b graph. Darst | ||
| 336 | |b txt |2 rdacontent | ||
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| 490 | 1 | |a Developments in geotechnical engineering |v ... | |
| 490 | 0 | |a Developments in geotechnical engineering. |v ... | |
| 650 | 4 | |a Ocean currents | |
| 650 | 4 | |a Ocean waves | |
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| 830 | 0 | |a Developments in geotechnical engineering |v ... |w (DE-604)BV001890103 | |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
| _version_ | 1819259974598000640 |
|---|---|
| adam_text | CONTENTS
Preface ....................... V
Chapter 1. Introduction................. 1
What is coastal engineering?............... 2
Interest in the oceans................. 4
Costs and rewards in ocean engineering........... 6
Need for education of ocean engineers............ 8
Definitions..................... 12
Sources of information................. 18
References..................... 19
Chapter 2. Wave-generation processes............. 21
Mechanism of generation................ 21
Resonance.................... 22
Shear flow.................... 25
Resonance/shear-flow combination............ 27
Sheltering effect.................. 29
Wave breaking................... 31
Wave characteristics.................. 33
Storm waves................... 33
Swell...................... 38
Meteorological conditions................ 43
Extra-tropical cyclones................ 44
Anticyclones................... 49
Tropical cyclones................. 50
Seasonal pattern.................. 54
Problems..................... 61
References..................... 64
Chapter 3. Wave forecasting................ 65
Wave statistics.................... 65
Sverdrup and Munk................. 66
Longuet-Higgins.................. 67
Cartwright and Longuet-Higgins............. 68
X Contents
History of wave prediction............... 70
SMB method................... 71
PNJ method................... 75
PM method................... 78
Darbyshire method................. 82
Fully arisen sea................... 84
The PM frequency spectrum.............. 84
The PM period spectrum............... 85
Dimensionless presentation.............. 88
Fetch and duration for FAS............... 93
Comparison of FAS formulae............. 95
Developing seas................... 98
Average spectra................... 105
Design data.................... 109
Fully arisen sea.................. 109
Developing sea.................. Ill
Optimum wave conditions............... 113
Wave dispersion................... 115
Waves from tropical cyclones............... 121
Examples..................... 127
Problems..................... 135
References..................... 139
Chapter 4. Theory of waves................ 143
Progressive wave: linear theory.............. 146
Water-particle motion................ 149
Wave energy................... 154
Progressive wave: finite height.............. 156
Surface profile.................. 157
Water-particle motion................ 160
Cnoidal theory.................. 163
Hyperbolic theory................. 166
Stream function.................. 169
Solitary wave theory................ 171
Comparison of progressive wave theories........... 173
Theoretical comparison............... 173
Experimental verification............... 176
Standing waves................... 179
Standing waves: linear theory............. 179
Standing waves: second-order theory........... 182
Partial clapotis.................. 184
Clapotis gaufré.................. 186
Contents
XI
Effects of viscosity.................. 191
Viscous damping.................. 193
Damping due to bottom permeability........... 195
Damping due to non-rigid bottom............ 196
Mass transport.................. 196
Examples..................... 206
Problems..................... 212
References..................... 214
Chapter 5. Effects of shoaling water............. 217
Wave refraction................... 217
Parallel contours.................. 220
Non-parallel straight contours............. 222
Curved contours.................. 224
Method when ao approaches 90°............ 225
Tracing orthogonals seawards.............. 225
Choice of depth increments.............. 226
Alternative methods................. 227
Wave energy................... 229
Refraction of short-crested waves............ 233
Refraction of wave spectrum.............. 236
Refraction by currents................ 237
Breakers and surf................... 240
Run-up procedure................. 240
Shoaling of wave spectrum.............. 247
Breaking processes................. 248
Examples..................... 249
Problems..................... 256
References..................... 260
Chapter 6. Wave recording................. 263
Analysis of a single record................ 265
Summation of records................. 269
Extreme values................... 271
Design waves.................... 272
Types of recorder.................. 274
Above surface................... 274
At surface.................... 274
Below surface................... 275
Major difficulties................... 276
Wave direction................... 276
vil Contents
Spectral analysis................... 277
Errors arising ................... 278
Pressure attenuation................. 278
Wave steepness.................. 284
Refraction and diffraction............... 286
Currents.................... 286
Estuarine conditions................ 286
Non-rigid bottom................. 287
Length of record................... 288
Record analysis................... 289
Recommendations.................. 289
Examples..................... 290
Problems..................... 295
References..................... 298
Chapter 7. Effect of structures............... 301
Wave diffraction................... 302
Semi-infinite breakwater............... 303
Breakwater gap.................. 311
Diffraction of wave spectrum.............. 316
Combined diffraction and refraction........... 318
Land-backed structures................ 319
Reflection and dissipation............... 320
Run-up..................... 324
Overtopping................... 327
Seiching..................... 330
Complex harbour shapes............... 334
Exclusion of resonant waves.............. 335
Water-backed structures................ 337
Permeable breakwaters................ 337
Submerged breakwaters............... 338
Pile arrays.................... 344
Mobile breakwaters.................. 346
Pontoons.................... 347
Flexible rafts................... 351
Miscellaneous................... 351
Pneumatic and hydraulic breakwaters............ 352
Examples..................... 354
Problems..................... 361
References..................... 366
Contents x
Chapter 8. Effect of waves on structures............ 371
Seawalls...................... 372
Pressures due to standing waves............. 372
Pressures due to breaking waves............. 379
Pressures on sloping walls............... 388
Pressures on composite structures............ 388
Cylindrical structures................. 393
Slender piles................... 394
Horizontal and sloping members............. 403
Submerged pipelines................ 406
Submerged objects of large dimensions........... 408
Rubble-mound breakwaters............... 416
Examples..................... 422
Problems..................... 428
References..................... 431
Appendix. Table of functions ofd/L0............. 435
Index....................... 449
|
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| callnumber-subject | GC - Oceanography |
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| dewey-full | 551.47.4162 |
| dewey-hundreds | 500 - Natural sciences and mathematics |
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| discipline | Geologie / Paläontologie |
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| id | DE-604.BV022161108 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2024-12-20T12:49:15Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 0444411011 |
| language | English |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-015375775 |
| oclc_num | 181790239 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | DE-706 DE-83 |
| owner_facet | DE-706 DE-83 |
| physical | XIII, 457 S. graph. Darst |
| publishDate | 1974 |
| publishDateSearch | 1974 |
| publishDateSort | 1974 |
| publisher | Elsevier |
| record_format | marc |
| series | Developments in geotechnical engineering |
| series2 | Developments in geotechnical engineering Developments in geotechnical engineering. |
| spellingShingle | Silvester, Richard Coastal engineering Developments in geotechnical engineering Ocean currents Ocean waves |
| title | Coastal engineering |
| title_auth | Coastal engineering |
| title_exact_search | Coastal engineering |
| title_full | Coastal engineering 1 Generation, propagation and influence of waves |
| title_fullStr | Coastal engineering 1 Generation, propagation and influence of waves |
| title_full_unstemmed | Coastal engineering 1 Generation, propagation and influence of waves |
| title_short | Coastal engineering |
| title_sort | coastal engineering generation propagation and influence of waves |
| topic | Ocean currents Ocean waves |
| topic_facet | Ocean currents Ocean waves |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=015375775&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| volume_link | (DE-604)BV002404406 (DE-604)BV001890103 |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT silvesterrichard coastalengineering1 |